First, after the grapevines have begun to bud, it's important to thin out the buds to select the best ones. This involves removing weak or poorly positioned buds while keeping the strong and well-placed ones. This process is known as "bud thinning." It should be done when the fertility of the flower clusters becomes visible, allowing you to remove underdeveloped shoots with small inflorescences. The number of shoots to keep depends on factors such as the type of trellis system, the grape variety, the tree's vigor, and the desired yield.
Second, shoot tip pruning should be based on the species, the tree's health, and the specific pruning method. During the flowering stage, it's beneficial to stop shoot growth for 10–15 days so that nutrients are directed toward the inflorescence, improving pollination and fruit set. For vigorous shoots, it's recommended to leave 4–6 leaves above the inflorescence before topping. For longer shoots, leave 12–20 leaves before cutting back, or 10–15 leaves if shorter. This helps speed up fruit ripening and promotes the hardening of the shoots. Later in the season, additional topping improves air circulation and light penetration, supports flower bud development, enhances fruit quality, and increases overall yield.
Third, auxiliary shoot management is an essential step. In most regions, once the secondary shoots begin to grow, all of them below the inflorescence should be removed from the base. However, 1–2 leaves can be left above the inflorescence to support growth. Shoots near the top of the vine can be left with 2–3 leaves to reduce the risk of winter damage.
Fourth, ring barking is performed by making a circular cut around the stem, typically between the cluster and the next section. A knife or specialized circular barking shears can be used to remove a 3–5 mm strip of bark, which helps regulate nutrient flow and improve fruit quality.
Fifth, removing old leaves near the fruit clusters improves light exposure and promotes better color development in the grapes. This is usually done once the fruit begins to soften, helping to enhance both appearance and flavor.
Lastly, managing tendrils is crucial. If left unchecked, they can interfere with proper tying, harvesting, and winter pruning. Tendrils also consume valuable nutrients, so they should be removed regularly during summer pruning. When new shoots reach 30–40 cm in length, they should be tied to the trellis framework, ensuring even distribution to prevent wind damage. As the shoots continue to grow, they need to be tied 3–4 times to maintain structure and stability.
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