First, for the main branch and the trunk of the frozen apple tree, use the main branch, the main stem budding shoots. Prior to full shoots short, promote their branches, and then cultivate all levels of bone branches. It is necessary to shorten the number of branches within 3 years to control the results so as to facilitate the rapid increase in the number of shoots.
Second, although some frozen apple trees do not have the phenomenon of slicing, the growth of the trees is weak, the shoots are short, and the falling flowers are more serious, and they are more susceptible to diseases. When pruning, the main and lateral branches and permanent auxiliary branches should all be cut short at full shoots to promote tree development. In addition, some flower buds must be cut out to make it less fruitful so as to restore the tree vigor.
Third, for frozen apple trees lacking branches, leggy branches should be used to make up for space. During the first year to the second young year after freezing, the young shoots were cut and the amount of shoot buds was retained, which promoted their sprouting more branches. The branches should be truncated from the third to the fourth year after being frozen. After the result, the branches should be properly retracted according to the space of the crown and cultivated into permanent auxiliary branches or fruiting branches. This will restore the crown after 4 to 5 years of cultivation.
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