Cucumbers are commonly grafted to enhance their resilience and productivity. Grafting offers significant benefits, such as improved resistance to soil-borne diseases like wilt, a stronger root system, better tolerance to low temperatures and low light, and enhanced overall stress resistance. The robust root system of the rootstock improves water and nutrient absorption, allowing for extended growth periods. In sunlit greenhouses, cucumbers can grow for up to 9–10 months, while overwintering production in sunshine greenhouses can reach more than 15,000 kg per acre.
The first step in successful grafting is selecting the right rootstocks and cucumber varieties. White-skinned squash is the most common rootstock due to its high grafting survival rate. New Sagazu and other pumpkin seeds are also highly recommended, though regular pumpkin seeds can work as well. For cucumber varieties, it's important to choose those that are cold-tolerant, resistant to downy mildew, and capable of producing long, high-quality fruits. Varieties like Jinyan, Jinchun, and Jinyou series, as well as Ningyang, Shinkansen, and winter shed series, are widely used.
Setting up the seedbeds is crucial for successful grafting. Seedbeds should be placed in greenhouses or heated areas, especially when preparing for late autumn or winter planting. There are typically three types of seedbeds: one for cucumber seedlings, one for rootstock, and one for grafted plants. The size of each bed depends on the number of seedlings needed. A standard setup might be 10 meters long and 1.5 meters wide. For example, if you need 2,500 seedlings per acre, spacing should be adjusted accordingly—3 cm x 3 cm for pumpkin seedlings, 6 cm x 6 cm for cucumbers, and 7 cm x 7 cm for grafted seedlings. The goal is to match stem sizes for better grafting success.
Soil preparation involves mixing non-diseased soil, pig manure, peat, or compost, along with fertilizers and organic matter. A typical mix includes 5 parts of non-diseased soil, 3 parts of pig manure, 2 parts of peat or manure, plus 1 kg of compound fertilizer, 5 kg of decomposed chicken droppings, 1 kg of lime, and 25 grams of arsenic and Mn-Zn. After mixing, the soil is laid out and watered before sowing.
Sowing timing varies depending on the season. Autumn-delayed cucumbers are usually sown in late August, while winter crops are planted in early October. Seeds should be dried for 1–2 days, then soaked in 55°C water for 25 minutes, followed by a 4–8 hour soak. Germination should be controlled to avoid direct exposure. Cucumber seeds are sown 2–3 days before pumpkin seeds, using a 66-line nursery. Each tray should have 1 cm of soil, with fungicides and insecticides applied to prevent diseases.
Before grafting, ensure all tools and materials are ready. At least 5–6 people are needed to handle the process. Essential items include buckets, basins, knives, grafting clips, bamboo stakes, and disinfectants. A small arch greenhouse with EVA film and shade nets is also necessary.
Grafting is done using the docking method. Water the seedbeds before digging up the plants, and carefully rinse the roots. Cut the cucumber at 1–1.5 cm from the cotyledons at a 45-degree angle, and cut the pumpkin similarly. Align the cuts and secure them with a graft clip. Remove the pumpkin’s growing tip, leaving only the cotyledons. Plant the grafted seedlings immediately in the prepared bed, ensuring both roots are buried in soil. Cover with plastic and shade to protect the plants from light and wind.
After grafting, proper management is key. For the first two days, the seedlings must be shaded and kept moist. After that, introduce light gradually. Maintain temperatures around 32°C during the day and 22°C at night for three days. Then slowly ventilate and harden off the seedlings. Spray fungicides like Dazomet and copper-based solutions twice to prevent diseases. Transplant after 10 days, and avoid cutting the cucumber roots for 3–5 days after planting.
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